Instructions to Change the Drain Pump in a Fisher Paykel Washer GWL15
Fisher and Paykel is a New Zealand-based organization that produces private machines. The GWL15 is a top-stacking programmed washer from the organization’s Ecosmart line. At the point when the channel siphon in the GWL15 washer begins to come up short, you may discover water waiting in the washer tub toward the finish of the turn cycle. Changing the channel siphon in your Fisher and Paykel washer takes care of the spongy garments issue. The channel siphon substitution procedure requires next to no dismantling and couple of uncommon apparatuses. fisher paykel washer parts diagram
Unplug the Fisher and Paykel GWL15 washer to maintain a strategic distance from genuine electrical damage while changing the channel siphon. Locate the hot and cold water supply valves on the divider behind the apparatus. Turn the valves clockwise to the extent they go to stop the water supply to the machine.
Destroy the washer out 2 to 3 feet and tip it back to lean against the divider. Access the channel siphon from underneath the machine. Find the siphon in the front, right-hand corner of the washer bureau.
Pry up the plastic holding tub on the channel siphon mounting section, utilizing a level head screwdriver. Wind the siphon counterclockwise and haul it out of the base of the washer cupboard.
Coat the seal stomach on the highest point of the supplanting channel siphon with a light layer of bearing grease. Hold the siphon up to the connector on the base of the tub and turn clockwise to bolt the segment into spot; the plastic holding tab naturally locks in.
Gradually lower the washer to the floor. Fitting the power string into a grounded electrical outlet, and open the hot and cold water supply valves before working the machine.
Step by step instructions to Repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
Stage 1: Take Care!
UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE OPENING THE CONTROL PANEL !
During the fix, in every case twofold check and investigate that attachment to ensure it is off the divider before doing anything inside the machine.
Indeed, here we are going to manage conceivable electric shock on the off chance that you are indiscreet in light of the fact that the control board and peripherals are altogether associated with mains. So expel that fitting before contacting anything… and remember there is water wherever as well!
Stage 2: Opening the Control Panel
Ensure the fitting is off the divider. It is helpful if the clothes washer is vacant of water and washing on the grounds that the water level sensor won’t be influenced when it is detached, and last on re-joined, during the fix.
Expel the 2 screws at the back of the Control Panel (see pic), and lift the Panel off the machine from the back turning towards the front (see pic). You will see the Control Module (a long somewhat blue plastic box with numerous links plugs) still joined to the machine. The Control Panel is associated with the Control Module by a link with an attachment. Separate this fitting from the module and set the Control Panel aside in a sheltered spot.
NOTE: the majority of the attachments in the Control Module have little plastic locks that safe the fittings to the attachments; you need to deliberately unlatch the attachments to unplug them (see pic).
Stage 3: Removing the Control Module.
Now, on the off chance that you have a Digital Camera helpful, take a couple photographs of the entire thing and keep it for reference later on, when re-joining everything back.
To start with, with incredible consideration expel the weight sensor hose from the Pressure Sensor by first evacuating the spring cut towards the hose and pushing the edge of the hose away from the sensor (see pic). Try not to pull from the hose as this will snatch the sensor’s plastic pipe and conceivably break it! Fare thee well, as the hose will most likely be adhered to the sensor by long periods of close contact.
Next, unplug the spade connectors on the upper left corner taking note of their positions. This is significant in light of the fact that they are the mains and the ground associations and these must return to precisely the same areas.
Presently expel every one of the fittings from the Module (they are all of various sizes so there is no compelling reason to put blemishes on them for while reassembling). fisher paykel washer parts diagram
In the wake of expelling every one of the attachments from the Control Module, there are as yet two links left heading off to the hot and cold water valves, and both have connectors pointing downwards (see pic). With consideration separate these 2 connectors yet put blemishes on them (like RED and BLU) to re-join accurately in light of the fact that these two are of comparable size.
With everything disengaged from the Module, evacuate the screw that ties down the Module to the machine and lift it tidy up the machine.
Stage 4: Opening the Control Module
The Control Module comprises of a long PCBoard, encased in a 2-section plastic box. This case can be effectively pried open by un-cutting 3 plastic tabs along one of the sides of the crate. When the container is open, the control board can be removed from the case by likewise un-cutting the holding plastic tabs (see pics).
Stage 5: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Fuses.
For this progression we need a Digital Multimeter (DMM).
There are 2 melds on the board (see pic), one of 1.6A and the other of 4A, both sort ‘T’ (slow-blow). Set the DMM to the Diode-Check range and test the circuits for coherence. Supplant the defective ones.
In the slip by of 1 year, I needed to fix my load up multiple times, for the most part because of the way that at first I couldn’t locate the first transistors or their precise reciprocals and the substitutions I fitted weren’t exactly capable. In all cases the 1.6A circuit had blown, just in the last fix the 4A wire had blown too.
I supplanted the first wires with the more typical 20mm sort, by fastening prompts them and putting them close to their unique position (see pic). During the last fix I chose to mount a breaker holder too, just for the 1.6A circuit, as there isn’t sufficient room in the case for the other one.
Stage 6: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Power Mosfets.
With the DMM still set to the Diode-check extend, check every single one of the Power Mosfets (around 12 of them) the accompanying way: associate the tests to the little two external sticks (the middle one is associated with the tab that is patched to the board) and search for a short out sign (see pic). With consideration desolder and supplant the shorted (flawed) mosfets. During my first fix I supplanted four Power Mosfets, at that point two in the second, at that point another two in the third, and afterward another two in the fourth. Just two were similar transistors. Each time one of the Power Mosfets blows, additionally the medium power mosfet (the driver) blows and should be changed (see pic). Be that as it may, before supplanting it, when expelled twofold check with the DMM that it is shorted, just in the event that the short is on the diodes or elsewhere. When desoldering the Mosfets, heat up the tab first and afterward the pins, all one after another while cautiously pulling with long nose pincers until liberated from the board. This activity is troublesome in light of the fact that the Mosfets are stuck to the board during assembling and you need to split the modest bond before the Mosfet can be expelled. Be delicate not to harm the board as it very well may be effectively harmed.
Stage 7: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Resistors.
A portion of the power mosfets have a 100-ohm resistors over their doors. These resistors once in a while likewise explode with the mosfet and go open circuit. They are near the mosfet, normally directly in front. Check all these 100-ohm resistors (stamped ‘101’) the accompanying way: in the wake of supplanting the blown mosfet, interface the DMM tests crosswise over the two closures of the resistor and search for a perusing of about 0.100 or close. On the off chance that there is no perusing, the resistor is open circuit and should be changed. Take as much time as is needed provided that you miss a flawed one, that mosfet explodes in a flash again when controlling up the load up.
Stage 8: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Diodes
With the DMM still set to the Diode-check go, check every single one of the enormous Power Diodes on the opposite side of the board (see pic) the accompanying way: Connect the DMM tests to each finish of the diode and search for an open circuit sign (no sign) or a diode sign (a sign of somewhere close to 0.4 and 0.6). At that point turn around the tests and check for the contrary sign to the one preceding. On the off chance that any of the DMM readings show a short, or an open in the two bearings, the diode is flawed; and should be supplanted. Check all power diodes. I never found any of the littler diodes flawed, however as a last resort to fix the board, you should check these as well. On the last fix, each of the four diodes in the scaffold design bolstering the electro tops had blown, all aired out, and part of the PCB track had vaporized.
Stage 9: Firing It Up.
Re-collect the Control Module and set it back in its place with the holding screw. Re-interface every one of the wires, giving specific consideration to the 2 ground spade connectors and the mains connector. Don’t re-append the weight sensor hose at this stage. Pivot the Control board with the goal that it faces the correct far up and place it simply lose in its place over the Control Box.
Presently remain back and plug the mains plug in. On the off chance that everything is great, the control Panel should illuminate, ‘sing’ and choose the last realized washing cycle. Victory!!!
On the off chance that it flops once more, you will hear a swoon ‘Thud’ and you should start from the very beginning again in light of the fact that you missed at least one flawed segments. Be intensive this time (it transpired the first run through in light of the fact that I had missed one open circuit 100-ohm resistor).
At the point when all goes well, unplug the mains string and, if there is no water in the machine, re-connect the weight sensor hose and the clasp.
In the event that there is water in the machine, you should expel it from the machine before re-connecting the weight sensor hose or the machine will think it is unfilled when in certainty it isn’t and will overload with more water causing a wreck.
Stage 10: Failure Troubleshooting.
When you first take a gander at the board you wonder…What could be defective here??? …in any case, I was so far fortunate that supplanting the Fuses, the Mosfets and the diodes was all I expected to make it go once more, with one special case: the time it halted on the grounds that the wobbly microswitch (fitted under the Power Module, see pic) was broken and needed to supplant it. I discovered this shortcoming by following the sign of the Fault Codes given in the manual. I wager the greater part of the flaws are because of simply these parts.
In the event that the module didn’t work the first run through, look at it once more. In the event that each one of those Power Mosfets, Diodes, resistors and breakers are alright, the module should work in light of the fact that all around once in a while any of different segments on the board go broken.
The water siphon is presently starting to make some bearing commotion, yet my Fisher and Paykel is as yet going solid right up ’til today.
Stage 11: List of Materials
For this fix you will require:
A Philips screwdriver,
Long nose pincers,
A computerized multimeter
A little fastening iron
A patch sucker
10 x 1.6A/250V/T/20mm wires (slow-blow wires) (Farnell p/n 112-3127 ) (about $10)
10 x 4A/250V/T/20mm breakers (slow-blow wires) (Farnell p/n 1123135 ) (about $10)
10 x 100-ohm SMD resistors (Farnell p/n 933-5749 ) (about $5)
10 x FCD4N60 Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 132-4776 ) (about $10)
10 x BUK98180 Medium Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 176-9680 ) (about $10)
20 x BTY78 Avalanche Soft recuperation Power Diodes (Farnell p/n 165-1070 ) (about $10)
These amounts guarantee you have bounty for more than one fix, sparing time too (four for my situation, and I did my toward the end in under 60 minutes).
Stage 12: Conclusion
The inquiry remains… for what reason do the Power Mosfets explode? (different parts explode just as an outcome). As I would see it the primary occasion that happens puts a strain on a portion of the different Mosfets, which in time likewise fall flat. Be that as it may, for what reason do they flop in any case?
I am researching this right now. The best clarification I can discover is that under certain conditions when the machine is halted part of the way through a microcontroller’s program execution (for example when the machine is ceased with the POWER catch as opposed to utilizing the PAUSE catch), some Mosfets are let actuated well enough alone for adjust and explode. To control this circumstance I have now trained ‘administration’ to stop or change programs just utilizing the PAUSE catch. This has so far functioned admirably.fisher paykel washer parts diagram